A few weeks ago I went to Vermont for the Marlboro Music Festival – starting last year or so I decided I wanted to visit the US more, since it’ll be harder to do if/when I settle down, so I might as well enjoy my freedom while I can. Going to classical music festivals gives me a nice incentive for me to pack my stuff and get in my car (or head to the airport, as was the case when I went to Colorado), since it’s a bit hard to find the motivation to go away for a weekend unprompted when I have so much to do.
The drive to Vermont itself was wonderful – I forgot my music at home and I don’t like listening to the radio long distance (because the stations change and even when they don’t they rarely play a lot of things I like), so I drove without any sound at all, except for the GPS lady. I avoided the New York City area and used mostly I-78/84/91, which provided a scenic and peaceful drive, with a pit stop halfway through in Southbury, CT to eat at Panera and fill the gas tank. What I loved most about it is that nature has a way of calming me down, so by the time I reached Brattleboro and the B&B, I had figured out what I want my next novel to be about and felt as refreshed as if I’d just gone on retreat. (By the way, if you’re ever in the Brattleboro area and need a B&B, I recommend Forty Putney Road. Just loved them on all counts.)
I had an hour or two of downtime before I headed to Marlboro, a 20-minute drive away. Apparently it’s a good thing I had the GPS I plug into my car, because someone at the B&B told me phone service is spotty and people who rely on the GPS of their phone to navigate often get lost. The drive along Route 9 was quite awe-inspiring, with stupendously tall pine trees and a very sinuous road that must be quite treacherous in the winter but was very enjoyable that evening. And when I drove back later after dark, the full moon lit the whole landscape up.
I’ll talk about the two concerts I went to in a second, but first I have to say the whole magical scenery in an area that obviously attracts a special kind of self-reliant, adventurous, close-to-nature crowd, made me think about the whole mess the country is in and the financial crisis brought about some money-hungry and/or power-hungry people in New York and Washington, D.C., none of whom seem likely to last more than five minutes in rugged Vermont in the winter (and frankly I wouldn’t either, I drive a Golf, I don’t know how to put snow chains, ice on the road makes me want to scream) and I couldn’t help but wonder: what happened, America? How could a country that produced Vermont and its resourceful residents get bogged down in such a quagmire and feel so powerless because of the greed of some bankers?
Going to Vermont for me meant reconnecting with a certain kind of faith in the human spirit, because Vermont (in the winter) is definitely not for the faint of heart, and just standing close to people who chose that lifestyle helps you to aim higher and push beyond your limits. I kid you not. At least that’s what Vermont did to me.
So, the concerts. They’re played by students from the Marlboro Music School and some of their professors. The first one had quartets by Hindemith, Beethoven and Faure, and curiously enough the Hindemith and Faure pieces (Quartet for Clarinet, Violin, Cello and Piano, 1938, and Piano Quartet in G Minor, Op. 45, 1885-86) enthralled me much more than the – very nicely played – Beethoven String Quartet, Op 18 No 3, all Beethoven enthusiast that I am. (It’s an early Beethoven string quartet, which might explain why it left me lukewarm.)
The second one had some modern pieces and, after the intermission, Beethoven’s Op.130/133 String Quartet, which ran over 45 minutes. For those of you who don’t go to classical music concerts, it’s hard to explain the feeling in the room when I see these musicians play without pause for 45 minutes straight, and produce such amazing sounds that you can’t help but feel moved at a very intuitive level, and that you can’t help either realize you’re witnessing a rare moment of great fleeting beauty.
As soon as I was back home I whipped out my Beethoven String Quartets box set by the Emerson String Quartet (yes… I’m that kind of person) and listened to it three or four times in a row. I’m still not tired of it. It’s that beautiful.
Now, about Rudolf Serkin. The first evening I bought his biography at the Marlboro festival by Stephen Lehmann and Marion Faber – I know about Adolf Busch, about whom I have an enormous two-volume biography I still have to read, but I didn’t realize Serkin had been his student, colleague and son-in-law.
The biography has some flaws (sometimes the authors mention things that they only explain later, for instance they write about Serkin and Busch’s daughter when they’re already married, before returning to the courtship) but it was a great introduction about Serkin, and also about Busch, since I haven’t found the time to tackle Tully Potter’s opus yet.
Another plus is that the book includes a CD of Serkin playing several wonderful pieces at the piano, which makes the price tag of $30 (Oxford University Press…) much more reasonable for a somewhat slim volume.
Serkin, before the Marlboro adventure, was the director of the Curtis Institute of Music in Philadelphia, where he helped place a new emphasis on chamber music, expanded the opera program and developed a strong connection with the Philadelphia Orchestra. Both at Curtis and at Marlboro, he placed an unusual importance, for a musician of his caliber, in teaching the next generation of artists.
Personally I feel that the focus on chamber music at Marlboro and the surrounding nature have helped distinguish the festival from many others. Another one of its key features is that the programs are only known a few days in advance, depending on which rehearsals have been most fruitful (the various groups of musicians haven’t played with each other before).
I wish more of an effort was made to get the public to know the students who are performing in the orchestra to create a connection not only with the spirit of Marlboro but with the blood-and-flesh people who create the music and hopefully will find their way to the national spotlight soon enough. Short biographies and pre-concert talks would have been helpful, although I admire the directors’ choice to completely focus on the music. The Marlboro Music Festival is truly a very special place, and I hope I get to come back.